Kings, Queens and Clubs of The Cross
On this unique exploration we’ll rediscover the infamous personalities, nightlife, neon lights, clubs and crime stories of Sydney’s (former) all-night entertainment hub.
THE CROSS IS CALLING YOU
Join a Sydney historian and Kings Cross chronicler on a journey through one of the city’s most fascinating, flamboyant and fiercely individual neighbourhoods. From grand colonial ambitions to bohemian hideaways, dazzling neon and notorious nightlife, uncover the people, places and extraordinary stories behind the Cross — a tiny pocket of Sydney with a global reputation for revelry.
WE’LL UNCOVER BOHEMIA, CRIME AND EARLY ENTERTAINMENT
Kings Cross has reinvented itself more times than perhaps anywhere else in Sydney. Long before the neon, nightclubs and notorious characters, this ridge above Woolloomooloo was home to grand colonial estates and some of Sydney’s wealthiest residents. But as the mansions disappeared and terraces, boarding houses and apartments took their place, a very different neighbourhood began to emerge.
By the 1920s and ’30s, the Cross was becoming Sydney’s great bohemian playground. Artists, writers, performers, outsiders and independent spirits found a home among its cafés, theatres, Art Deco apartments and after-hours haunts. Sly-grog shops, gambling, prostitution and cocaine existed alongside this creative world, while razor gangs and underworld rivalries added a more sinister edge to streets already developing a reputation for doing things differently.
A SPOTLIGHT ON SEX, DRUGS AND ROCK’n’ROLL
By the second half of the 20th century, Kings Cross secured its scandalous status as Sydney’s late-night playground, driven by sex, drugs and rock ’n’ roll. As we re-imagine the glamour, gangsters and go-go bars of the infamous Golden Mile, we’ll bring to life the drag queens, activists, eccentrics and nightclub kings who kept the Cross alight with action — alongside the rock stars and international celebrities who descended upon its hotels and clubs.
Along the way, we’ll discover new establishments and revisit legendary venues — illustrating their former lives using rare archival imagery. With a particular focus on personalities who helped shape the colour of the cross we’ll unpack the role of notorious local figures such as Abe Saffron and discuss the still-unsolved disappearance of Juanita Nielsen.
Beneath the glow of the famous Coca-Cola sign, this tour gives contemporary audiences a chance to reimagine the Cross as it once was and fall under the spell that lured so many to its neon-splashed streets for so long.
AT A GLANCE
- 2 hr 15 min walking tour
- Small groups of max. 15 people
- $58 per person
- Led by an expert Sydney historian
- Private tours available
HONOURING SOME KINGS CROSS ROYALTY
- Dulcie Deamer: The Queen of Bohemia
- Abe Saffron: The Boss of The Cross
- Carlotta: The Star of the Show
- Bernie Houghton: The Baron of The Bourbon
- Kate Leigh: The Queen of Sly Grog
- Tilly Devine: The Duchess of Dames
- Roger Rogerson: The Crowned-Prince of Corruption
- Bea Miles: The Baroness of Beatniks
- Juanita Nielson: The Princess of Potts Point
- Sir Wayne Martin: The Knight of Nightlife
- Rosaleen Norton: The Witch of Kings Cross
REMEMBERING SOME SUPERSTAR VISITORS
- The Beatles: 1964
- Dusty Springfield: 1964, 1967
- Frank Sinatra: 1959, 1961, 1974
- Ella Fitzgerald: 1960, 1967
- Mick Jagger: 1965, 1973
- David Bowie: 1978, 1983, 1987
- Elton John: 197os, 1984
- Bee Jees: 1970
REVISITING SOME CLASSIC KINGS CROSS CLUBS
- The Pink Pussy Cat
- The Pink Panther
- Les Girls
- The Staccato Club
- The Love Machine
- The Rex
- The Gazebo
- The Silver Spade
- The Roosevelt
- The Bourbon & Beefsteak
- The Nevada
- Surf City
GOOD TO KNOW
Our Kings Cross walking tour starts at the El Alamein Fountain in Elizabeth Bay, just a short walk from Kings Cross Station.
The tour finishes near the Kings Cross Hotel, beneath the famous Coca-Cola sign.
The tour lasts approximately 2 hours and 15 minutes, exploring the streets, laneways and hidden corners of Kings Cross and Potts Point. We move at a relaxed pace, with regular stops to uncover the fascinating characters, colourful history and extraordinary stories that shaped the neighbourhood.
Potts Point is a hilly suburb, and the tour includes some unavoidable slopes and inclines as we explore its historic streets and lanes. For this reason, the route is not suitable for wheelchairs, walking frames or prams. If you have limited mobility or are unsure whether the tour will be suitable for you, please contact us before booking and we’ll be happy to discuss the route with you.
Our meeting point is the El Alamein Fountain in Fitzroy Gardens, Elizabeth Bay.
By train: Take the train to Kings Cross Station. From there, it’s approximately a 5-minute walk along Darlinghurst Road and Macleay Street to the fountain.
By bus: Several bus routes service Kings Cross and the surrounding area. Check Transport NSW for the most convenient connection.
By car: Limited street parking is available in the surrounding streets, but parking restrictions apply. We recommend using public transport where possible.
We recommend comfortable walking shoes and a bottle of water. Sydney weather can change quickly, so check the forecast before you set out and bring an umbrella, rain jacket, hat or sunscreen as appropriate.
Tours generally go ahead in light rain, so we recommend checking the forecast and dressing for the conditions. If severe weather makes it unsafe or impractical to run the tour, we’ll contact booked guests as early as possible with alternative arrangements.
The tour is generally recommended for guests aged 15 and over, as it explores some of the darker and more colourful aspects of Kings Cross history, including crime, organised gangs, prostitution, drugs and nightlife. Parents and guardians are welcome to use their discretion, but we recommend contacting us before booking for younger guests.
As places on our small-group tours are limited, every child attending must be included in the booking, regardless of age. Please let us know in advance if you plan to bring any children.
There is public seating at Ulster Street Reserve, where the tour begins. There are no public toilets at the meeting point or along the tour route, which takes us mainly through Woollahra’s residential streets. We recommend using facilities before arriving; nearby cafés and pubs may have toilets available to customers at their discretion.
Your Journey Walks guide will be waiting at the meeting point before the tour begins and will be carrying a clearly branded Journey Walks tour folder. Please arrive around five minutes before the scheduled start time so we can check everyone in and begin on time.
Yes. Woollahra: Once Upon a Time is available as a private tour for families, friends, community groups and corporate groups. Private tours can be arranged on alternative dates and times, subject to guide availability. Contact us to discuss your group and preferred date.
WATCH OUR TOUR TRAILER
Together we will bring to life the local characters, hidden secrets & forgotten flavours the Cross’s Golden Age. We will reveal the quirky & glamorous Art Deco street-scapes of Potts Point. We will uncover a contemporary culture of cafes, cocktail bars & clubs. And we will delve into the area’s controversial history of lust, luxuriance & long-nights that left its mark on so many, for so long.